At the tiny junction town of Ban Vieng Kham, 47km south of Pakkading, Route 8 begins its journey over the Annamite Mountains to Vietnam. These days the majority of travellers pass through here on direct, air-conditioned buses running the Vientiane–Vinh route, but it’s worth pausing at the frontier town of Lak Xao, a base for trips to both the Ho Chi Minh Trail and the Nakai-Nam Theun NBCA.
Tracing a centuries-old trading route to Vietnam, Route 8 zigzags through hilly countryside, dotted with woods and tiny stream valleys, the southern horizon punctuated by black-topped limestone pillars draped in lush vegetation. An hour’s drive along this route takes you to the village of NA HIN, which sprang up during the construction of the Theun-Hin Boun Dam, completed in 1998. The hydroelectric potential of the area is vigorously demonstrated during the monsoon season, when the rains recharge a medley of waterfalls on the surrounding hillsides. The densely forested hill guarding the valley’s southeastern side alone supports as many as six sizeable falls, all visible from the highway.