This rustic town-village at the junction of the Mekong River and the smaller Nam Beng (Pakbeng means Mouth of the Beng) lies about halfway between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai (Bokeo Province). The Mekong here forms the border between Udornxai and Sainyabuli provinces; P akbeng – Laos is on the northern bank and so belongs to the former.
Pakbeng
Basically a market town and transit point for travel to Udomxai, Huay Xai and Luang Nam Tha, Pakbeng’s mostly wooden houses sit along a steep hillside. Close to the ferry and speedboat piers is a collection of makeshift shops and cafes that get more interesting the farther away from the river you go. Hmong and tribal Thais are frequently seen on the main street. A few vendors along the street sell local textiles and handicrafts.
Pakbeng
Two wats of mild interest can be visited in town, both of which are off the left side of the road north, overlooking the Nani Beng. Wat Khok Kho is the newer of the two, with a sim of rather recent construction and a wooden monks quarters.
Farther up the road, a series of stairs on the right-hand side lead past a small school to Wat Sin Jong Jaeng, an older temple that dates to the early French colonial period or possibly earlier. On the front exterior wall of the small but classic Lao sim is a mural that includes figures with moustaches and big noses – presumably early Dutch or French visitors. Inside there are a number of Buddha images or varying ages. A new Lao-style thaat on the premises was constructed in 1991; it’s gilded at the top, and the base is said to contain a cache of (sacred) material (probably small Buddha images of crystal or silver, prayer cloths and rosaries from revered monks).
Pakbeng Market
Nearby villages might be worth visiting if you can find a guide – ask at any of the guesthouses. Electricity in Pakbeng generally runs from 6pm until 6am.
